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Milan Diary: Lardo di Colonnata
Bear with me on this one because it’s really light and delicious, even if it is pure pork fat. But Lardo di Colonnata is not just any cured pork: It is the carefully trimmed fatback of Italian pigs that is then coated with spices (salt, pepper, fresh rosemary, sage, nutmeg, cinnamon, coriander and cloves) and marinated under brine for six to ten months in cool caves in a marble container — a conca. The marble is of the finest quality; Colonnata is contiguous with Carrara, where generations of sculptors have sourced their material.
Lardo tastes melt-in-your-mouth sweet without any cloying quality at all. Spread it on toast, add it to salad, or just take it neat, as I recently did at the Trattoria del Carmine restaurant in Milan’s Piazza del Carmine:
A decade or two ago, the EU’s bureaucrats tried to rule that curing Lardo di Colonnata in a marble conca in deep, coool caves did not meet sanitary norms. Fortunately, common sense and many centuries of history (according to local lore, Michelangelo was a big fan) saved the day, and the production of lardo has not been impeded.
Addendum: A similarly delicious preparation, Lard d’Arnad, comes from the Val d’Aosta region in northern Italy. Using spices and brine as is done with Lardo di Colonnata, it is produced in wooden tubs called doïls, made from oak, chestnut, or larch.
August 14, 2013
Breaking: Of Crips and Bloods and Memories of Ghetto Parties
History repeats itself, first as tragedy and then as farce, or sometimes it just repeats itself. From the New York Times on November 30, 1998: At Dartmouth College, white students at a ”ghetto party” dressed…
June 25, 2013
Dean of the College Charlotte Johnson’s War on Students Part (2/2)
Part 1, Part 2 Today’s post again recounts the events that befell the Freshman. However, the content of the Hanover Police department report reproduced in this space yesterday is supplemented by information from my own…
October 18, 2009
When Love Beckoned in 52nd Street
We were at San Francisco’s BIX last evening, enjoying prosecco, cheese, and a bit of music. A full year of inhabitation in Northern California has unraveled to me no decent venue for proper lounging, but…
October 9, 2009
D Afraid of a Little Competish
So our colleague and Dartblog writer Joe Asch informed me that the D has rejected our cunning advertising campaign. Uh-oh. The Dartmouth is widely known as a breeding ground for instant New York Times successes,…
September 4, 2009
How Regents Should Reign
As Dartmouth alumni proceed through the legal hoops necessary to defuse a Board-packing plan—which put in unhappy desuetude an historic 1891 Agreement between alumni and the College guaranteeing a half-democratically-elected Board of Trustees—it strikes one…
August 29, 2009
Election Reform Study Committee
If you are an alum of the College on the Hill, you may have received a number of e-mails of late beseeching your input for a new arm of the College’s Alumni Control Apparatus called…