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Milan Diary: Il Tempio della Gastronomia

Most major cities have a no-holds-barred fine foods store: Fauchon in Paris, Fortnum & Mason in London, and to a lesser extent Dean & Deluca in New York. All strive to gather the best of the best for a discerning clientèle. But to my mind, for sheer gastronomic delight, nothing approaches Peck at 9 Via Spadari, not too far from the Duomo in Milan. Founder Francesco Peck believed in Italian superiority, too, when he opened the store 129 years ago. For example, he is often quoted in Milan as preferring Italian cheese to anything from France. “The only good French cheese,” he used to say, “is Normandy butter.”

Perhaps because Italy has not lost its many artisanal traditions, or because when Italians put their mind to something, it comes out so well, Peck can be more than a store: it is an education in cheese, meat, wine and endless wonderful preparations of food. I can never really tell whether shopping there creates an appetite in me or satisfies it, but for light, color, smell and taste, don’t go to Milan without stopping by.

Peck Out.jpg

Peck In.jpg


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