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Paris Diary: Kermit Lynch at Lunch
When the history of French winemaking is written, there will be more than a footnote dedicated to American importers, none of whom has been more important than Berkeley’s Kermit Lynch. Beginning in 1972 he has imported wine into the U.S. from France, but not just any wine: wine that he has tasted in situ, liked, shipped in refrigerated containers, and most importantly, insisted be made the traditional way — in old oak foudres without fining and filtration. He bucked a trend in which young winemakers, university-educated in what was then deemed modern and correct, insisted that age-old practices be thrown over in favor of new technological solutions. Insecure fathers listened to their school-taught sons, until Kermit arrived to set things right. At first, Lynch’s winemakers made a special cuvée Kermit, but when they saw that it was good, they reverted to the old ways for all of their production. Slowly, in a process that is still ongoing, the world’s vignerons began to follow.
Anyways, the distinguished looking fellow in the picture above was sitting at the lunchtime communal table across from us at high-end butcher Hugo Desnoyer, and when I overheard in his party’s conversation that he was in the wine import business, I asked him the name of his company. He said Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. I inquired if he enjoyed working with Lynch, whose book I had read. He replied that he was Kermit Lynch. Much merriment.
Addendum: Hugo Desnoyer’s butchery is part of a return in France to more natural — and infinitely more tasty, and therefore satistying — food. Lunch at one of the three tables in his shop is an opportunity to taste beef the way it used to be, and might one day be again, and meet some interesting people at the table d’hôte:
October 18, 2009
When Love Beckoned in 52nd Street
We were at San Francisco’s BIX last evening, enjoying prosecco, cheese, and a bit of music. A full year of inhabitation in Northern California has unraveled to me no decent venue for proper lounging, but…
October 9, 2009
D Afraid of a Little Competish
So our colleague and Dartblog writer Joe Asch informed me that the D has rejected our cunning advertising campaign. Uh-oh. The Dartmouth is widely known as a breeding ground for instant New York Times successes,…
September 4, 2009
How Regents Should Reign
As Dartmouth alumni proceed through the legal hoops necessary to defuse a Board-packing plan—which put in unhappy desuetude an historic 1891 Agreement between alumni and the College guaranteeing a half-democratically-elected Board of Trustees—it strikes one…
August 29, 2009
Election Reform Study Committee
If you are an alum of the College on the Hill, you may have received a number of e-mails of late beseeching your input for a new arm of the College’s Alumni Control Apparatus called…
August 23, 2009
Fare Thee Well, Tom Crady
And now Dean Tom Crady has precipitously announced his departure from the College after only 20 months on the job. How to read this? By way of background, prior to coming to Dartmouth, Crady had…
May 31, 2009
Kangaroo Court, Indeed
In an interview with The Dartmouth, alumni-elected trustee T.J. Rodgers ‘70 explained his reasons for declining to participate in future evaluations of trustees up for “re-election,” namely the “kangaroo court” nature of such discussion in…