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Une Grande Table Parisienne: Lasserre
The French refer to Paris’ most luxurious restaurants as “les palaces,” and none merits the epithet more than former Résistant Réné Lasserre’s (1912-2006) creation in the avenue Franklin Roosevelt. The food is old-fashioned, but food this good never goes out of fashion. And the waiters wear tails and almost all are men — women only began to serve at table in better French restaurants in recent years.
The rich furnishings are complimented by the wonderful warm colors of the walls and decoration, and the restaurant’s unique accent is a ceiling/roof that silently glides open (see below) every so often, depending on the weather. Regrettably Lasserre no longer requires that men wear ties, though the staff does insist on jackets. My sense is that patrons can add to or diminish the elegance of this type of establishment; they, too, are part of the mise en scène. How sad in such a place is the man in jeans with a loose shirttail.
Réné Lasserre’s enduring contribution to French cuisine, beyond such dishes as pigeon André Malraux, is the sauce spoon — cuillère à sauce — a surprisingly useful utensil, especially for fish and other soft foods blessed with an accompanying sauce. Lasserre invented the piece in the 1950’s and it is now offered by all of the major cutlerers.
October 18, 2009
When Love Beckoned in 52nd Street
We were at San Francisco’s BIX last evening, enjoying prosecco, cheese, and a bit of music. A full year of inhabitation in Northern California has unraveled to me no decent venue for proper lounging, but…
October 9, 2009
D Afraid of a Little Competish
So our colleague and Dartblog writer Joe Asch informed me that the D has rejected our cunning advertising campaign. Uh-oh. The Dartmouth is widely known as a breeding ground for instant New York Times successes,…
September 4, 2009
How Regents Should Reign
As Dartmouth alumni proceed through the legal hoops necessary to defuse a Board-packing plan—which put in unhappy desuetude an historic 1891 Agreement between alumni and the College guaranteeing a half-democratically-elected Board of Trustees—it strikes one…
August 29, 2009
Election Reform Study Committee
If you are an alum of the College on the Hill, you may have received a number of e-mails of late beseeching your input for a new arm of the College’s Alumni Control Apparatus called…
August 23, 2009
Fare Thee Well, Tom Crady
And now Dean Tom Crady has precipitously announced his departure from the College after only 20 months on the job. How to read this? By way of background, prior to coming to Dartmouth, Crady had…
May 31, 2009
Kangaroo Court, Indeed
In an interview with The Dartmouth, alumni-elected trustee T.J. Rodgers ‘70 explained his reasons for declining to participate in future evaluations of trustees up for “re-election,” namely the “kangaroo court” nature of such discussion in…