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Un Vero Gelato
In Dartblog’s unending search for the true, we occasionally find produits to terroir in the Upper Valley: local things that meet the French standard of authenticity. In the past we’ve commented on baguettes, cheese, apples and apple cider, yogurt, and milk, and I am happy to say that Italian gelato is now available locally.
I’m not talking about the insipid ices that go by this name all over the U.S. and which have as much in common with real Italian gelato as Gallo’s Hearty Burgundy has with a grand cru from the Côte de Nuits (full disclosure: I’ve never tasted Hearty Burgundy — there are limits to what I will do even for you, dear reader).
Rather, what we now have in Hanover is real Italian ice cream in both fruit and cream flavors of the kind that you can get in little shops all over Italy if you search out the good places (warning: if gelato is displayed in great swirling masses, you are probably getting a mass-produced product). Gelato is fairly dense, is served at a higher and more agreeable temperature than American ice cream, and above all it is about flavor — pure, rich flavors from local ingredients, where, for example, a gelato alla fragola can tell you more about the true taste of strawberries that eating the berries themselves. I could go on…
In any event, a charming young woman, Morgan Morano, has done her homework and served a long apprenticeship in Florence. Her little shop, GelatoMorano, at the back of Rosey’s Café, serves the best gelato that I have ever had stateside. The Valley News gave her a complete write-up the other day, so I’ll conclude by suggesting that you go by and try her gelato at Rosey’s, or in packaged form at Kildeer Market, the Hanover Farmer’s Market and Stella’s in Lyme. This is the real deal, and if you want to eat this kind of delicious and healthy food (the fruit flavors have no cream at all in them) on a regular basis, then it is worth making an effort to support this young artisan.
Note: I am looking forward to maple gelato one day — a flavor unjustly neglected by ice cream makers.
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